Stepping off the plane in Amman, the first thing that hit me was warmth—not just the heat, but the smile of the woman at passport control as she said Ahlan wa sahlan. It was early December, so the air carried a crisp edge and the high-season crowds had melted away. Over the next ten days, traveling alone through Jordan, I kept coming back to that first greeting. The country made solo travel feel less like a challenge and more like a conversation.
Arriving in Amman: First Impressions and Practicalities
Queen Alia International Airport is modern and efficient. I had bought the Jordan Pass online before I flew; it covers the visa fee and entry to most major sites, including Petra. At immigration, the officer did not even blink at a solo female traveler. She stamped my passport and pointed me to baggage claim. Inside the terminal you will find ATMs that dispense Jordanian dinars and a taxi counter with a fixed fare to the city—around 22 JD, about 31 USD. Stick with the official white taxis; the drivers are registered and know the route.
Amman sprawls across beige limestone hills, full of street life. I stayed in Jabal Amman, a district of narrow streets, art galleries, and sidewalk cafés. My hotel was a small boutique called The House, run by a family who brought me tea on arrival and a map with handwritten notes. The neighborhood is steep in places, so the walking shoes I brought for Petra got used in Amman too. That personal touch shaped the rest of the trip.
Traveling Solo as a Woman
Friends asked if I was worried about safety before I left. My honest answer: I was more cautious than I would be in Europe, but I never felt afraid. Jordan is one of the most welcoming places in the Middle East for solo female travelers. The attention I got was mostly curiosity. A few habits helped me feel comfortable and blend in:
- Dress modestly. I wore long pants or skirts below the knee and tops with sleeves past the elbow. In Amman, many local women wear headscarves, but tourists are not expected to cover their hair. I carried a pashmina for mosques and more conservative neighborhoods.
- Use the women-only sections. Public buses and some cafés have designated areas for women. I found them a quiet way to travel without constant attention.
- Learn a few Arabic phrases. Shukran (thank you), afwan (you're welcome), and la, shukran (no, thank you) got me through every day. People appreciated the effort, and it often led to genuine conversation.
- Trust your instincts. I never felt harassed, but I did get persistent offers for tours and taxis. A firm “la, shukran” and a steady walk usually ended it.
The same principles that helped me in India applied here—listen to your gut, pack light, and don't overplan every hour. I wrote about that trip in Solo Female Travel in India: What I Wish I Knew Before My First Trip, and much of it transfers directly to Jordan.
The Itinerary That Worked for Me
Ten days left room for slow mornings and a few unplanned detours. Here is the route I followed, with notes for other solo travelers:
Day 1–2: Amman
I spent my first day walking up to the Citadel, wandering the Roman Theatre, and getting lost in the downtown souk. The Citadel hill is steep but short, and the view from the top takes in the whole city at once. The Jordan Museum is excellent and has English labels. On day two, I took a local bus to the Dead Sea—about an hour. The bus dropped me near a public beach, and I paid a small entry fee to a resort that lets day visitors use the facilities. Floating in that dense turquoise water, looking across at the hills of the West Bank, was pure stillness.
Day 3–4: Petra
I took the JETT bus south out of Amman to Petra: direct, comfortable, about three hours. I stayed in Wadi Musa, the town at the entrance. The Jordan Pass covers one day in Petra; I bought a second-day ticket on-site for 55 JD, and it was worth every dinar. I used part of the first evening to walk from the guesthouse to the entrance gate, so I knew where to go at first light. The first day I walked the main trail through the Siq to the Treasury and then up to the Monastery. The climb to the Monastery is steep—allow a couple of hours each way. The second day I hiked the back route to the High Place of Sacrifice, and for an hour I had the canyon to myself. That solitude, among the rose-red rock, was the deepest experience of the trip.
Day 5–6: Wadi Rum
A shared taxi took about 45 minutes to cover the route between Petra and Wadi Rum village. My desert tour was a two-day, one-night camp run by a Bedouin family. The camp had private tents for women, a proper toilet, and meals cooked over fire. We drove through red dunes, climbed natural stone bridges, and drank sweet mint tea as the sunset turned the rocks ochre and violet. The camp arranged the jeep tour, so I did not have to negotiate anything myself. At night, the stars were so thick they seemed to hum.
Day 7–8: Jerash and the North
Back in Amman, I took a day trip to Jerash, the best-preserved Roman ruins outside Italy. The site is huge—allow at least three hours. I hired a local guide for 20 JD; he showed me the hippodrome, the colonnaded streets, and the theater where his voice carried without amplification. The next day I visited the desert castles of Qasr Amra and Qasr Kharana on a small group tour from Amman for 35 JD.
Day 9–10: Return to Amman and Farewell
My last two days were slow. I went back to a favorite café in Jabal Amman, bought a jar of za'atar spice in the souk, and took a cooking class with a local woman named Fatima. She taught me to make mansaf—lamb and rice cooked in fermented dried yogurt. We ate together on her balcony overlooking the city. That meal felt like a gift.
Where to Stay as a Solo Woman
I stayed in small guesthouses and family-run hotels rather than hostels. In Amman, The House (Jabal Amman) felt like a home. In Petra, Petra Moon Hotel had clean rooms and a rooftop with mountain views. In Wadi Rum, the Bedouin camp was the highlight; I booked through Rum Stars Camp, which has good reviews on travel forums. Read recent reviews from solo women before booking—I noticed properties with a female owner or female staff member felt especially safe. I rarely felt lonely; guesthouses have common areas where conversations start naturally over tea.
What to Eat
Jordanian food suits a solo traveler because much of it is communal and forgiving. I lived on falafel sandwiches from street stalls for 0.50 JD, hummus with fresh bread, and knafeh, the sweet cheese pastry, for dessert. In restaurants I ordered mezze—a spread of small dishes that works perfectly for one person. In Amman, I ate most meals alone, and servers brought me the same warm bread and olives they brought to larger tables. I also brought home a bag of jameed, the dried yogurt used in mansaf.
Practical Tips at a Glance
- Visa: Buy the Jordan Pass online before you travel (70–80 JD depending on how many sites you want included). It covers the visa fee if you stay at least three nights.
- Money: ATMs are common in cities. Carry small bills for taxis and tips. Credit cards work in hotels and larger restaurants.
- Transport: JETT buses connect Amman, Petra, and Aqaba. For shorter routes, shared taxis called service taxis are cheap and frequent. Agree on the fare before you get in.
- Health: Tap water is not safe to drink. Buy bottled water, and pack hand sanitizer and basic stomach medicine—street food is delicious, but your stomach may need a moment to adjust.
- Connectivity: Buy a local SIM at the airport (Orange or Zain, around 10 JD for 5 GB). Hotel Wi-Fi is generally good.
- Packing: Comfortable walking shoes are essential—Petra involves miles of uneven stone steps. A headlamp helps in the Siq after dark. In December, light layers work best: days around 20°C, nights around 5°C.
On costs, I fell back on the habits from my budget-travel days. I Travelled Solo on €35 a Day – Here’s How has tips on finding cheap meals and free attractions that work just as well in Amman and Petra.
Before you go, download an offline map of Petra. The signal drops inside the Siq, and having the trails marked on my phone saved me from missing the back route to the Monastery. That small piece of preparation turned a tourist trail into my favorite morning in Jordan.
